Napoli, the Isle of Capri and the Amalfi Coast are all known and well-travelled gems in the region of Campania, yet south of Salerno lies the lesser known, yet absolutely brilliant Costiera del Cilento – a region that seems to have still not lost its soul and way of life to mass tourism – and which in every way, remains deeply authentic.
This is a coastal stretch of Italy and of the region of Campania that is sure to be discovered by international tourism at some point, but we’re just glad that we’ve discovered it now, so that we can share the magic with likeminded guests seeking an ‘off the beaten path’ experience of Italy.
Our Cycling and Multi-Adventure Tour brings together the very best of the Cilento Coast and delivers on what we believe is the ‘new luxury’ of travel – quiet roads, warm Mediterranean sea, simple and traditional local dishes, authentic family-run accommodation, and local people with whom to connect and savour daily life.
Here we share with you our Top 10 Elements that make this a region and tour that you just need to experience for yourself, to truly savour an authentic taste of Southern Italian life.
1. The Riding
The riding in the Cilento is nothing short of stunning. There is a beautiful mix of roads and rides that take you inland and up into the mountain ranges that pepper the terrain, and into the small villages and hamlets that sit at 1000m above sea level. Here the landscape changes from lush forests to rugged limestone strewn hills, and back again as you take corner after corner.
You’ll also enjoy the many rides that follow the coast and where you literally hug the edge of cliffs that fall into the shimmering sapphire sea below. The roads twist and turn like a ribbon on the landscape, with the mesmerising sea always at your side. As you roll along, there is an interesting mix of colourful houses, vibrant flowers, rustic stone walls and snippets of rural life effortlessly woven together, creating a spell binding tapestry of this very special and unique place.
2. Mozzarella di Bufala
Campania is the home to mozzarella made from buffalo milk, and Paestum in the Cilento (where we begin our tour) sits at the very heart of it. Mozzarella di Bufala is a delicacy that is made daily, is formed by hand and is one of the key ingredients in Italy’s iconic Caprese salad. It is also used in pasta dishes, lasagne and risotto, on pizza, stuffed into zucchini flowers, enjoyed as part of a traditional antipasto plate, and is a key addition to many panini made across the region.
One of the beautiful things is that for most families in the Cilento, they still are able to buy it direct from the maker, or the ‘caseficio’, and if you drop by in the morning to purchase your freshly made daily quota, you can still see the cheese makers doing their thing….and if you do your research and select your caseficio wisely, you can also enjoy gelato made with buffalo milk, which is something truly special.
3. A Slowness without the Crowds
One of our overarching principles when we travel and research places for our Italian cycling and multi-adventure tours, is to find places that are quiet, lesser known and off the well-worn path (or now more a highway than a path).
Even in peak Italian summer holiday time, the Cilento is a region that feels like it has a pace of life and a sense of calm that we haven’t felt since the 80’s. There is a slowness and softness that is tangible.
4. Home of the Mediterranean Diet
Yes, the Cilento is the ‘official’ home of the Mediterranean diet. When Ancel Keys, the US doctor who discovered ‘The Mediterranean Diet’ in the 1950’s, chose the humble town of Pollica in the Cilento as his base to study the people’s diet, lifestyle, attitudes and way of life, he chose it for a reason.
He discovered that the secret of La Cucina Cilentana is not only in its simple, seasonal ingredients and its heavy reliance on olive oil, legumes and vegetables, but also in its time-honoured recipes across land and sea, that have been handed down through generations. It was this diet, combined with the lifestyle and cultural traditions of this and other similar regions across the Mediterranean, that gave rise to his discovery of the Mediterranean diet, as we know it today.
The real beauty is that the Mediterranean diet and lifestyle is still lived in the Cilento today – where the rhythms of nature are respected, and the time taken to enjoy the best things in life, are honoured.
5. Mountains meet the Sea
We are captivated by a landscape that has mountains and limestone cliffs which fall into the sea, and the Cilento has just that. It is dramatic and stunning in equal measures. When riding, there are parts of this region where you’ll reach 600m above sea level in just 2km and there are other areas where it may take you 20km to reach a peak of 1000m. Either way, both illustrate the landscape superbly and captivate you in unique ways.
And then there is the abundance of hikes that take you through many diverse landscapes, and where you encounter very few other walkers. Here there is a stillness and beauty that feels surreal, and just as we do, we’re sure you’ll find yourself stopping along the way to remind yourself that these beautiful, quiet places do really still exist.
Beautiful hikes inland take you along rivers, through ravines and over medieval stone bridges, and hikes that follow the coastline see you meandering up barren limestone landscapes, as you view the stunning little coves from up high, before making your way down to the water’s edge. Then there’s other hikes that take you through beautiful villages, up through pine forests, past ancient churches and grand statues, and then see you descending back to the sea – with a gentle pause for a coffee in the piazza along the way.
6. La cucina Cilentana
Amazing and diverse is how we describe the food of the Cilento kitchen and we also say, it’s right up there as some of the best food that Italy has to offer. It is simply delicious.
In addition to anchovies and mozzarella and a myriad of slow-food ingredients, the Cilento grows a lot of legumes and green leafy vegetables such as cime di rapa, scarole and cicoria which influence their cooking. They are also known to produce high quality, unique varieties of carciofi (artichokes), beans, chick peas, figs and honey.
Some of the most memorable flavours that we have had in the Cilento include:
- A homemade pasta of 5 different shapes, with a delicate fish broth and topped with raw local red prawns
- A fresh little buffalo ricotta with honey and locally grown walnuts at breakfast
- Fried anchovies in breadcrumbs that brought back childhood memories for Damian
- Strangolapreti pasta with zucchini flowers, pork sausage and scamorza cheese
- Fresh figs picked that morning in our garden, with delicate, locally produced prosciutto
- ‘Nchiappata’ aubergine stuffed with cheese, mozzarella, eggs and pepper in a homemade tomato sauce
- ….and the list could go on……..
7. Crystal Clear Sea
Crystal clear and in many shades of sapphire, emerald and turquoise, it is absolutely spellbinding to be in or on the water along this coastline. Paddling with a kayak or SUP and exploring the rugged coast and its many little grottoes is one thing, but being able to swim inside a grotto in the early morning, with no-one around and only the gentle waves and shimmering sunlight rolling in, now this is pure delight.
The coast is lined with coves and little beaches that are only accessible by foot, and some that have either rustic or elaborate beach clubs, to elevate your day at the beach, Italian style. Whatever your style and whether swimming, snorkelling, SUP and paddling, kayaking or exploring with a boat – the crystal-clear, shimmering waters of this stretch of coast, combined with its sheer cliffs, luminous grottoes and natural caves, just calls you to dive in.
8. Anchovies
The anchovies of Cilento, known as ‘alici di menaica’, are a traditional and sustainable ‘slow food’ delicacy caught using an ancient fishing technique. This method involves using a large-meshed net called a ‘menaica’ to catch only the largest anchovies, preserving the species and their quality.
When you spend some time in the Cilento, it’s very easy to enjoy these delightful little fish in many different ways. For antipasti, they can be marinated with lemon juice, pink peppercorns and parsley, or fried and marinated with vinegar, mint and garlic – known locally as scapece. The next course is pasta, and is usually a fresh spaghetti alla chitarra or penne with sauces that can range from a tomato base, a crema of cime di rapa or delicate seafood stock, but always with the fresh anchovies as the hero. Mouthwatering goodness.
9. A Southern Way of Life
From its hilltop piazza’s and medieval villages, to long days shared at the beach, the southern way of life is lived out every day here in the Cilento. People come together each day to talk, play cards and enjoy community, and fresh food vendors bring their latest harvest or catch to town for locals to buy, enjoy and share. Produce, recipes and the seasons are part of the daily conversation – from young kids walking to school talking about what their nonna’s cooked last night, to the nonna’s themselves sitting in the piazza’s comparing their most subtle recipe variations with lifelong friends. It’s this deep richness and appreciation of good food, community and an attitude of contentment, that lives on strongly in this part of the world. It’s a joy to linger and absorb.
10. Maratea
Sometimes in your travels, you come across a place that stops you in your tracks. Often it instantly takes you by surprise with its sheer beauty and at other times, it’s only after a few days of living the slow life amongst the locals, that you realise just what a gem it is. Maratea is this place. Just across the border from the Cilento in the region of Basilicata, Maratea is a place we stumbled across ‘accidentally’ (“is anything accidental’?) and instantly fell in love with. From its natural beauty and setting, to its medieval charm, ease and calm, and its incredible crystal clear waters and coastal roads, Maratea is one of Italy’s best kept secrets and it won’t stay this way for long, so come and experience it with us before it’s too late. It’s the culmination of our tour and a place that will stay with you forever.
We hope you’ve enjoyed this short snapshot of some of the things we love about this beautiful part of southern Italy. If you’d like to join us on our Cycling + Multi-Adventure Tour of the Cilento Coast, click here.
